The Costume Design in "Poor Things"

The new cinematographic sensation has arrived! An unusual coming-of-age story, stylized down to the last pin.

In this article, we'll leave the hidden meanings aside.... They're pretty obvious anyway, you don't need me for that...! We will focus instead, on the direct influences Holly Waddington took into account to design costumes both Victorian and modernist.

Poor Stylists

In "Poor Things" we will find characters, and mainly its main character "Bella" played by Emma Stone (an unnecessary mention, probably...), mixing the Victorian style of the late 19th century with exaggerated silhouettes and modern fabrics such as plastic or latex typical of contemporary catwalks.

Holly Waddington explains: "I knew Yorgos (Lanthimos) didn't want a sci-fi or period film aesthetic." Yes, the film was directed by Yorgos Lanthimos, Holly isn't talking about what her childhood friend who has nothing to do with the production recommended, of course...

The frame above is an example of the messy styling that "Bella" wears when she decides her outfit for herself in the film: "That jacket would look good paired with another type of outfit (...) but when I looked through the clothes from that era I said to myself, they're almost like short tops. How would they look on their own?" This is how Waddington relates how she adapted her style to the character.

And to quiet the gossip: The center pleat detail on the front bodice with many flaps, accompanied by a cinched waist, which appears several times during the feature, became a running joke between the designer and director, who referred to the design as the " vagina blouse"... Retelling jokes is an ungraceful job....

Poor Polysons

This is how Holly Waddington talks to us about the polyson-cage, her favorite garment of the whole film:

"It's quite a work of art, it looks like a mermaid's tail. The bustles are worn underneath the clothes, so we don't usually see them, and they are very intriguing objects. This one is made out of tissue paper and was very difficult to construct. I was partly inspired by Moncler down jackets. Basically, I saw a certain garment in a vintage clothing book and thought, 'This looks like what they do at Moncler.' It's funny because at the same time, this piece is very true to the period. The clothes in this film have a modern feel to them, but everything draws from historical sources. For example, the prints on the bodices are very Victorian. What I didn't do is subject myself to the rules of this period when choosing materials or the way the clothes are worn."

Thank you Holly for explaining it all better than I could...!

Holly Waddington

The British costume designer already had extensive experience in recreating period costumes with films such as "Lady Macbeth (2016)" based in rural England in 1865, for which she received an award and several nominations for her work at various smaller festivals.... However, in "Poor Things" where she gives unusual free rein to her imagination she has already been nominated for the Oscars, Bafta, Critics Choice Awards... And she hasn't won them because those festivals have not yet taken place!

Poor Journalists

Before I finish I should mention that the raincoat worn by Emma Stone in the frame below refers to a condom from 1800... In the movie it makes sense, I promise! Holly herself says: "It sounds crazy, but it's just what I had in mind." Do I have to constantly quote the designer for you to believe me...?

Do you want to design an iconic costume full of symbolism to give the press something to talk about (the poor things are in need...)?...

Domestika will help you on your way to the Oscars... or to the Goya Awards... or your town's festival, at least...! It's a good place to start:

- Don't miss these Online Fashion Courses
- Best Fashion Designers of All Time
- More Fashion Design Courses