Specialization in Artisanal Leather Crafting Techniques

Cutting and Sharpening Leather

We start with the basic knowledge of handling the knife. You will learn how to cut and sharpen leather of various shapes.

Gluing leather has a number of advantages and is unavoidable in many cases. However, it can be done with different means and techniques, which I will show you here.

Gluing Leather

A centuries-old technique that is still practiced by luxury brands today is the traditional saddle stitch. In this lesson I'll go through the most important steps, from thread selection, length calculation, leather preparation to the actual stitching.

Sewing Leather 1

After I have explained the relevant basics of hand sewing to you, I will use a test piece to show you the sequence of the saddle stitch and how to finish the seam. At the end you will be ready to apply your sewing skills in your own test project!

Sewing Leather 2

17m

Working on the Edges

Sealing all the glued and stitched layers of leather takes a few steps in the right sequence so that the edge is not only aesthetically smooth but also lasts a long time. Here's how to do it!

Pattern and Dimensions

In this lesson you will learn the basic techniques of pattern making and will see how to prepare a pattern for actual cutting.

Leather Selection and Cutting

After the pattern is set, I'll show you from which parts of the leather it is best to cut the parts and how and at which places they have to be sharpened.

Gluing Parts and Clean Cut

Once all the rough cuts are done and the edges are chamfered, it's a matter of gluing the inner lining to the outer leather in the right way and making the net cut for a clean edge.

13m

Making the Edges

On larger projects with multiple layers of leather, it is especially important to use the right edge finishing methods. In this lesson you will learn all the necessary steps for a clean and long-lasting edge.

In this lesson you will learn how to measure a zipper correctly and how to cut an endless zipper to the required length yourself, including the installation of all start and end stops.

The Zipper

In this lesson I will show you how to assemble the main part of the fanny pack, that is, how to assemble the front and back parts. To do this, the upper and lower parts must be sewn together with the zipper.

Assembling the Bag Parts

Making the Shoulder Strap

In the next step we work on the shoulder strap. First, I'll show you how to make it and install a belt buckle. It is important to first test the pattern on the edge of the bag and make changes if necessary.

Attaching the Shoulder Strap

After both parts of the shoulder straps are done, next I'll show you how to attach the shoulder strap to the bag. And then the fanny pack will also be ready!

Finally, I would like to introduce you to two methods to give your fanny pack a personal creative touch. On the one hand marquetry, in which individual pieces of leather are assembled into a motif, and on the other hand 3D shaping of leather.

Customizing the Bag

10m

Module 3

Learn the essential tricks and techniques for making purses and bags, from first sketch to final product

16 lessons (2h 26m)

How do ideas arise?

What do I see before making a bag? In this lesson I will show you what kind of resources I use to do it and I will tell you where I look for new ideas. You will see how I analyze some bags that I like to be able to implement new things in mine.

Sketch

Now I will show you the options I was working on before deciding on one. You will see the different sketches I made and my selection process for one of them. Not all strokes have to be perfect, don't worry, you can create cute bags with a few simple strokes!

First things first, how do you choose your leather?

Welcome to the world of leather. This lesson will be crucial, as I will tell you about the main material that I will use. I'll tell you why I have a preference for rawhide and why I find it so unique and noble to work with. Remember that it all depends on what you want to create!

materials

Few tools? Don't worry, you don't need that many. I will show you what are the necessary tools to make a bag. I recommend you start your project with the essentials, if you love this then I do recommend you start acquiring more tools.

The Basis of Everything! How to Make a Pattern

Everything in life needs good foundations, and the ones for your bag will be your patterns. You are going to learn how to make the entire structure of your bag, better known as the pattern!

11m

How to Cut Leather

I will introduce you to the star of the course: the leather. Don't be afraid, working on it is easier than you think. You will learn to cut it in order to prepare your patterns! I'll also give you some tips to make your cuts more precise. All I ask is that you be careful when cutting and protect your fingers if possible.

Leather Shaping

You already have the pieces cut, what's next? You will learn some ways that make subsequent assembly easier, one of which is the shaping it with water. This technique is not complex, but there are specific instructions to follow for it to work well.

Leather Treatment

To finish this unit, I will show you how to treat leather. Remember that it is not essential to do it at this stage, this is a purely personal taste. However, it is important that you know how to do it and with what. Finally, I'll explain the possible outcomes of treatment so that you understand them before applying any techniques to your bag.

Line of seams and hammered

We will start to pierce the leather! In this lesson you will learn how to do it to create your seam lines. Don't worry, I'll give you some recommendations so you can do it wonderfully! I will also show you two hammering techniques.

I will show you two types of stitches, one that is simple and that I will use to sew the handles and then a two-needle stitch that I will use to sew the gussets.

Sewing types

15m

Gusseted stitching

Can you sew? I did not know and learned, now I will teach you! I will also explain how to apply the cement to facilitate the process. You will see in detail how I carry out the entire sewing process.

Rivets and second line of stitching

In this lesson you will see how to place the rivets of the base, they will serve as support for the bag. Before starting to make them in your bag, I recommend you try it on a patch. I will explain to you how to mark the places where your remchaches will go.

Handles

Do you want to know how to assemble the handles for the bag? In this lesson I show you how to put them together using a plastic rope and a simple stitch. I'll give you some tips on how to make a curved cut to make them fit better. It's a simple job, but it will make your bag look great.

13m

Lid, handle placement and closure

Let's start bringing the bag to life! The structure is already assembled, but some things are missing such as adding the handles, the lid and the closure. You will see some latest changes that will make the bag start to look prettier and more fit.

At this point, the bag is almost ready. What's next now? I will show you the last details, which we will polish so that the bag looks extraordinary. If it doesn't fit you perfectly, don't worry, I'll show you how to correct all those details. Finally, I will tell you everything you need to know about a process better known as leather burnishing.

Prying

Stamp

Do you have a brand? Do you want to add a personal detail? You will learn how to add a stamp. If you already have your own brand, I recommend paying special attention to this lesson. I will show you how I apply it so as not to damage the bag.

Module 4

Discover the art of leather craftsmanship with Lili Storella as she shares her unique 3D sculpture method for creating bespoke handbags. From concept to construction, you’ll explore the foundations of leatherwork and learn to design pieces that reflect both function and personality. Build accessories that carry not just essentials, but also your story.

20 lessons (3h 23m)

Design

Here, I will explain to you my method of “3D sculpture" of a handbag and walk you through the concept of the design you are going to make—The Minibag.

Material and Tools

In this lesson, I will show you all the tools and materials you will use in this course and what they do for.

Before you get your hands-on leather, you need to understand some foundation knowledge of different leather, pattern making, saddle stitch, and edge painting.

Technique Foundations 1

I'll continue showing you some of the basic techniques you'll need to carry on with the making of your purse. Finally, I'll teach you how to improve the quality of your bag’s appearance by adding perfect edge painting.

Technique Foundations 2

Design

First, I will show you how I usually design a handbag, in this case, it will be Minibag. I'll talk you through how I select the hardware and the outlook.

Pattern Making

With the design of the Minibag done, I will teach you how to start your actual handbag by showing you the explosive drawing. After that, you will start to make the patterns and set up the assembled sequence.

Let's get ready for assembling! In this lesson, I am going to walk you through the details of all the materials.

Preparation

Cut the Leather

Now I will teach you how to correctly cut the leather and which part of the leather you should use.

Cut the Reinforcement Material

This one is the last lesson of this unit and before getting to the actual assembling I will teach you how to prepare the reinforcement material.

Assemble the Individual Parts 1

After you have all the materials prepared from the past lessons, in this lesson, I will teach you how to assemble them one by one.

15m

Assemble the Individual Parts 2

Since this will be the core of your project let's have a second look. Here, I'll show you how I work on this process in my studio.

Creasing, Punching, Stitching and Edge Painting 1

In the following lessons, I'll teach you how to crease, punch and stitch. First, you'll learn how to use the electric creasing machine to make a stitching line, which will be the guideline for you to punch holes with a pricking iron and then work on your stitches.

21m

Creasing, Punching, Stitching and Edge Painting 2

Now I will show you the creasing process and will work on the edge painting with leather/reinforcement material.

Take a closer look at how to secure your thread to the needle.

To Learn More 1

To Learn More 2

Level up your stitching game! Here you will get a deeper and closer look at how to properly stitch your pieces.

Make the Closure Part 1

This lesson is the freest style and creative part. I will show you how I make my closure design.

I will continue working on my closure part design. I'll teach you how to combine the padding details into your own.

Make the Closure Part 2

Final Assemble

Finally, in this lesson, I´m going to put all the parts together in the sequence I set up before. The handbag is almost ready!

Hot Stamp Logo and Initial

Now I will teach you to make your logo and initial with the hot stamp machine.

Tips and Tricks

In this last lesson, I want to share with you my tips on how to go further in leather crafts work.

Module 5

Join Leanne and Nick Polidore of Hemlock and Hyde to explore the craftsmanship behind their signature leather bags. With a balance of heritage techniques and modern design, they’ll guide you through tools, patterns, and construction methods. Step by step, you’ll create a refined crossbody bag that embodies both style and lasting quality.

17 lessons (2h 46m)

To Learn More: Studio Tour

We thought you might enjoy a tour of our studio! In this course, we will only be using hand tools. However, in order for us to produce at a higher rate and keep up with orders, we use many different machines to speed up the process. Allow us to show you our home workspace and tools! You will see how we organize our materials and some of the machines we use to create our bags daily.

Understanding Leather and the Moonrise Bag

Let's get inspired! In this lesson, we will introduce the moonrise bag and show you examples of other designs using these same techniques. We will also go over our main material, leather. You will learn the main types of leather, why we choose to work with veg tanned leather, its different properties, and how to choose the correct weight for your project. Lastly, we will delve into the tools and materials you will need in order to set up your workspace and complete the course project.

Materials and Workspace Preparation

In this lesson, you will learn the basics of the tools we use and why we prefer them. As a beginner, knowing where to start when looking for new materials can be challenging. What will you need to become an expert leathercrafter? We encourage you to always find tools and materials locally, if possible. All the tools we discuss are ones we have personally had experience with unless we state otherwise. We've added some helpful links below, so if you want you can use the same materials that we do!

Sketching and Pattern Making

How do you go from an idea, to a sketch, to a paper pattern? Finding inspiration can be tricky. Often when you're looking for it, it's nowhere to be found. The spark of an idea can come from many different places at any given time. In this lesson, we'll share where we find inspiration, how to transform this into a leather bag, and the important parts of a bag to consider while sketching your ideas. You'll see how we turn a sketch into a paper pattern to use for the final moonrise bag.

Technique, Foundations, and Practical Exercises

In the final lesson of this unit, we will teach you the techniques, tools and exercises needed for a seamless bag making experience. You will practice cutting out a curve in your oak tag using your compass and claw knife, as well as achieving a straight cut with a straight edge ruler and rotary cutter. We will also walk you through how to use wing dividers and pricking irons.

Select the best part of the hide for your bag and place your pattern on the leather. Using a sharp blade and a steady hand, you'll have all the pieces ready to be prepped for the next steps.

Cutting the Bag Pieces

Prep Work

Let's get the bag ready to be sewn! Most of these steps can't be completed once the bag is assembled. So, if you plan on finishing your edges and adding a magnet, it's important to follow these steps now.

10m

Preparing the Gusset

Next, you'll learn the method we use to get a structured gusset using an often overlooked tool, the bone folder. This will make hand-sewing the bag much more straightforward and will help give your bag its shape. If you decide to upgrade to an industrial sewing machine later down the line, this method helps to keep the leather panels aligned for more precise sewing.

Dry Fitting and Gluing up the Gusset

Here is where your bag really starts to take shape. Clips come in handy for the dry fitting and glue-up to keep everything in place. By the end of this lesson, your moonrise bag will be ready for the pricking irons.

Pricking Irons: Punching Holes in the Front Panel

In this lesson, we will guide you through punching all the holes in the front panel and starting the sewing process using the saddle stitch method. Check out the additional resources and documents for different methods on how to finish your edges, or learn a little more about the different types of pricking irons and how they can change the aesthetic of your bag design.

Time to Saddle Stitch

Slow and steady wins the race! It's time to saddle stitch your front panel to the gusset. At this stage, all that practice will come in handy. Saddle stitching offers a strong, durable stitch that won't unravel if one stitch breaks.

Sewing the Back Panel to the Gusset and Front Panel

In this lesson, you'll assemble the main body of the bag together: dry fitting, gluing, hole punching, and sewing. By the end, your bag will be one step closer to its final form.

You can choose to burnish, paint, or leave your edges raw. This will affect the overall look of your bag and design. There are so many options to finish your bag. In this lesson, we'll go over the method we use. Feel free to experiment with different ways to seal the leather edge and find what you like best.

Finishing the Edges

Creating an Adjustable Strap

We will now show you how to create a sliding, fully adjustable strap for your bag. This way, your bag can be worn as a shoulder bag or crossbody bag. You will learn a fast trick on how to bevel the edge of a long strap quickly and easily.

Customizing with Hardware

Now it's time to really shine! Make your design truly your own by adding hardware or keeping it minimal for a more sleek look. There are many types of bag closures, snaps, rivets, and hardware available for bags. Find what you like best to make your bag even more personal.

Finding Your Design Voice

How can you find inspiration and push your skill level to improve your craft and create what's in your mind? In this lesson, we'll explain how to set yourself apart and lean into what makes your designs truly unique.

Documenting and Promoting Your Bag on Social Media

If you're interested in sharing your work and creating a business from your craft, in this lesson we will show you how to stand out in the social media world to draw your ideal customer to you.

Module 6

Explore the transformation of flat hide into sculptural, functional forms with Beth Dow. Combining artistry with traditional craftsmanship, she’ll guide you through every step of designing and sewing a bespoke leather tote. From working with vegetable-tanned hide to mastering the two-needle stitch, discover how to create handbags with texture, character, and lasting beauty.

23 lessons (5h 47m)

Vegetable-Tanned Cowhide

In this lesson, I will introduce you to vegetable-tanned cowhide—the material that will be used for the course project. This type of leather has been processed using vegetable matter, like natural bark and other plant materials.

In this lesson, I will show you the tools you need to make this project, from the necessary basics and the optional extras! I will also give a brief overview of the brands that I prefer to use.

Tools and Materials

Next, I will talk about how to draft patterns for leatherwork and modify the dimensions of your tote bag. By the end, you will have your templates ready to trace onto the leather.

Drafting the Pattern

Cutting the Leather 1

Now that you have your pattern templates, the next step is to mark the leather and cut it out. I will model this process step by step, by preparing the front pocket and progressing to some surface embellishments.

15m

Cutting the Leather 2

In the second part of this lesson, I will continue to work on the second pocket, creating a gridded pattern by following my cutting mat as a guide. Remember that it's much easier to score towards you than away!

Preparing for Sewing 1

To get started, you will learn how to finish the top edges of your tote bag and prepare the side seams for sewing. I will demonstrate how to use the beveling tool.

In the second part of this lesson, I will continue using the stitching chisel to punch holes into the edges of my leather. Then, I will show you how to make the necessary preparations to attach the pocket.

Preparing for Sewing 2

17m

Preparing for Sewing 3

Now that I've prepared the edges of the pocket, the next step is to position it. I will place it onto the body of my bag and mark out its placement, before punching in the stitching holes.

Sewing with the Saddle Stitch 1

You will now learn how to prepare your thread, which will involve covering it with beeswax, before practicing the saddle stitch.

Sewing with the Saddle Stitch 2

With the thread waxed and measured, I will now show you how to stitch the leather. You will see how to anchor the thread, before learning the step-by-step choreography to successfully execute the saddle stitch.

Sewing with the Siddle Stitch 3

Finally, in the last part of this lesson, I will show you how to set the stitches by hammering the edges of the leather. I will also explain the importance of scraping off any excess wax as you go.

Sewing on the Pocket

It's time to apply the stitching techniques you've learned to the course project! In this lesson, I will demonstrate how to use the saddle stitch to attach the front pocket.

10m

Making the Bottom Panel 1

Next, I will teach you how to prepare and attach the bottom interior panel. Then, you will learn how to add feet to your bag. These are intended to act as a layer of protection.

17m

Making the Bottom Panel 2

Now that I'm finished with the base panel—the edges are nicely bevelled and the holes are punched—it's now time to connect this to the bag's body.

How to Make and Attach the Handles 1

Next, I will show you how to make two-layered handles and attach them to the tote body with copper rivets. To start with, I will demonstrate how to mark your leather.

How to Make and Attach the Handles 2

It's time to attach the rivets! I will walk you through the process of setting, cutting, peening, and (optionally) sewing the rivets in place.

13m

Wet Molding the End Panels

In this lesson, I will teach you about wet molding vegetable-tanned leather to prepare the end panels for the tote bag.

Cementing the End Panels 1

Once the panels are dry and the edges have been scored, bevelled, and burnished, you will need to attach and cement them to your tote bag using adhesive.

Cementing the End Panels 2

I will now show you how to trim the seam of the side panels with a sharp knife. You will learn the essential measures to take to ensure you handle the tool safely.

Sewing the End Panels 1

In this lesson, you will learn how to make stitching holes with an awl and sew the side panels. First, I will guide you in marking the interior stitching guideline using dividers.

In the second part of this lesson, I will continue sewing the edges of the panels. Finally, I will finish the bag by attaching rivets to the corners.

Sewing the End Panels 2

Let's bring your project to a strong finish! I will demonstrate how to gently shape the bag and stretch open the pocket seams.

The Final Shaping

Sealing and Treating the Leather

In this lesson, you will learn how to finish your tote bag by treating the leather. I will also explain how to care for the leather and why this is so important.