Let’s Print!
Now it is time to print a white oversized dress and play with our drawings and found materials. I will show you one by one 4 different techniques we will combine in order to create a unique composition giving depth to our garment.
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Sublimation 1
With this technique, you will be able to transfer, using special ink and a heat process, your drawings, and create beautiful textures. It is a surprising and magical technique!
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Sublimation 2
Let's keep on discussing the sublimation technique.
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Textile Sprays
Now we will work with another great technique, very easy to work with and quite fun!
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Textile Manipulation with Felting Needle and Spray
A technique I just love as it allows our fabric to get a gorgeous tactile effect. It is very easy to create and fun to make.
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Collage
Now I will teach you how to make a collage of one printed fabric onto our oversize dress. It is just a great technique!
Tasks
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Your Selected Garment Practice exercise 3.1
I am really looking forward to seeing your garment on the forum.
Remember that you can grab some nice and special pieces from your wardrobe. It doesn't have to be an oversized dress. If you want, show it to me so we can check which techniques will be the best to work with.
Additional resources
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Testing Sublimation Ink on Different Fabrics
Testing the colours in advance will give you a good indication of the final result. The color on paper is never the one we get on fabric, most of the time our transferred color may be somewhat softer or brighter than that of the paper. Important to remember: it is a mirror way to work, not direct.
So, doing some sampling will give you an opportunity to check your iron settings and colour results on your different fabrics. This is why we will first test your colours, painting on some small squares on an 80gr white paper (it is important it is a non-absorbent paper).
STEPS
Mix the small jar to be sure the pigment is perfectly mixed.
Make a square using your colors. Use them as a watercolor painting with a brush on your 80gr white paper.
Once our swatches are ready, using a pencil, write next to each swatch the reference of your color ink in order to remember which one you have been using.
Let them totally dry. (It can take 20 minutes more or less. Or by using a hairdryer we can accelerate the drying process)
Place your paper on top of the fabric, drawing facing down on your fabric
Place your iron on top of the paper or use a baking sheet in between to protect your fabric, moving your iron constantly and very slowly in order to prevent iron marks. Iron your paper for about 20 seconds at 180 Cº- 200 Cº.
Remove both iron and paper and “SURPRISE!!” your swatches will have been transferred onto your fabric. Now you can see the difference of tone from paper to fabric. You can try on different backgrounds if you want. -
Contemporary Print Design
Before making your final creation, let me share with you some designers making each of them in their own way, beautiful prints. Have a look if you want and get inspired in order to create your own beautiful and unique composition.
List of contemporary designers working with prints
Richard Quinn
Amelia Graham
Mari Mekko
Mary Katrantzou
Amber Day
Tali Furman Wolf
Gemma Blackwell
Gucci
Proenza Schouler
Rodarte
Dries Van Noten
Minakani
View Publications
Eve Hourregue
Cecilia Sorensen
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Sublimation - Important Things to Remember
To do sublimation we use a special ink called Deka Iron on ink, a colored paint to make transfers on the fabric of drawings, paintings, or textures using heat. The ink looks like watercolor. With this technique you can draw or paint using one color or many colors, you can mix them or dilute them with water. It will allow you to get complex drawings or textures, all looking like a handmade painting.
Sublimation ink is a transparent ink so you have to work on a white or pale fabric as the color of your ink will mix with the color of your background. You won’t be able to work on dark fabrics as your design won’t be visible. Also, it isn’t a technique that allows you to create a repeatable infinite design like in silk screening. You might be able to do multiple transfers of the same design but each time you will see a color change, getting paler and paler.
It adheres to most synthetic fabrics such as polyester, acetate, nylon, lycra, and also blends of natural (cotton, linen, wool, etc.) and synthetic fabrics that contain 50% synthetic. On fabrics with less than 50% synthetic fibers, your colors will get paler but resistant to washing.
Attention! Motifs appear side-inverted after ironing! -
Collage - Important Things to Remember
It is better to use thin fabrics for collage if you do not want to deform your garment.
I do recommend you use fabrics such as tulle, chiffon, thin popelin, silk, etc. Fabric doesn’t have to be made of polyester. Make sure not to superpose too many layers as the result will get very thick.
And make sure to cut each double-faced interlining shape you will need to glue a bit smaller than your real printed fabric shape.
Iron minimum of 10 seconds at 180 Cº- 200 Cº using a baking paper to protect your design and iron.Remember! In order to get a good result, your background fabric shouldn’t be too thin as you might get a deformation once using the double-faced interlining. It is recommended to work on thicker fabric than poplin or voile such as denim, knit jersey, etc.
Additional resources
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PDF
Textile Sample Creating a Rain Effect Using Sublimation
Attached is a file with my pointers on how to create the rain effect through sublimation.
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PDF
Textile Sample Combining Sublimation & Textile Spray
Attached is a file with my pointers on how to combine textile spray and sublimation.