Lace top with beaded brush strokes.

by Claire de Waard @claire_de_waard

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What is lace? Starting with a small sample, the ideas of positive and negative space are explored.

With twirling shapes, further embellishment can be added onto the surface (here paper but acting as fabric).

A conventional pattern is worked in order to create a fitted top, which will then be adapted for the lace design.

A paper mock-up is created : because 'links' are keeping the lace together, seams can be scrapped and the top moulded around.

A rough idea for the beaded placement is also made.

A recap showing my moodboard : inspiration for the top and materials gathered to showcase the colour + textural spectrum.

Each piece is worked separately on a frame, the pattern piece for the top transferred and the embellishment done if necessary

After securing the edges, the negative space can be cut away. Here one piece which will connected to the others like a puzzle

Having studied on a Hand Embroidery course, I am interested in how traditional techniques can be reinterpreted.

I was interested in creating a capsule collection of garments which would challenge our representation of what lace is but also the making of lace from a technical point of view.
The top made here is a sped up version of what lace can be, playing on the positive and negative space allowed by cutting the fabric away. The 'positive' space allows for further embroidery while the 'negative' space also plays an inherent role in the embellishment, allowing the skin to peek through.

The top was first explored through a paper mock up, cutting away the excess and making sure the different pieces can be held together with bugle beads in narrow gaps. There are only two tiny darts on the bodice, but not seams as the different pieces of fabrics puzzle together to be moulded around the body.