A Short History of Fashion Photography

Carola Rafowicz of Park studio takes us on a journey through the key moments in the history of fashion photography

As a creative discipline, fashion photography has evolved together with photography itself. The changes in the aesthetics and social functions of photography, as much as technological advances and social development, have helped give this discipline a versatile character.

Creative director Carola Rafowicz of Park (@parkcreative), an expert in the production of fashion projects and in brand strategy, runs us through a short history of fashion photography.

Beginnings

When photography was born, critics and artists alike questioned whether this would become an art form in itself or merely be a mechanical representation of reality.

As photographers experimented and presented the possibilities and scope of this new art, photography revealed new facets and uses. Fashion photography became a form of artistic expression in its own right around the 20th century: a visual art rather than applied art.

Portraiture

In art history, portraits had the function of ripping into the social status of the aristocracy. With time, portraiture became a more democratic medium as they became accessible to common people. Something similar occurred in photography. It is believed that Countess Virginia of Castiglione, who was photographed wearing her luxurious dresses, was the first model in history.

First fashion photographs

The original function of fashion photography was utilitarian: fashion items were displayed for a commercial purpose. However, it later became a form of art, a way to express the individual's wishes.

At the start of the 20th century, the first fashion photos appeared in magazines. Up to that moment, magazines were illustrated.

During the twenties and thirties, publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar began to portray models wearing clothes and accessories, in poses and natural environments that were more relatable and appealing to their female readers.

The birth of contemporary fashion photography

Photographer Martin Munkácsi introduced movement to fashion photography in Harper’s Bazaar, thus sowing the seed for contemporary trends. He also portrayed women in a more current, dynamic, and fresh manner. In his images, clothes are not a simple accessory but become a living element, an integral part of the model.

Other photographers, such as Man Ray and Horst P. Horst integrated classical, modern, and theatrical styles with a mix of cutting-edge art that often questioned the traditional idea of beauty.

Evolution in the 20th century

Around the fifties, we must mention the work of New York photographers, such as Irving Penn, who worked for Vogue. He put the model center stage and was a major influence for every new generation of fashion photographers.

Later on, fashion photography adapted to the changes brought about by the cultural and social revolutions of the seventies. Photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin incorporated critical commentary on and influences from what was happening worldwide, portraying independent, stronger women in their pictures.

In the eighties, the focus shifted towards consumer society, and fashion photography concentrated on advertising. Patrick Demarchelier, Bruce Weber, and Oliviero Toscani are some of the representatives of that era.

In the nineties, a more minimalist image was made popular, and supermodels became more famous around the fashion world. The photographers representing that era are Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, David LaChapelle, Steven Meisel, and Nick Knight.

Present day

Further down the line, interest grew in looking back on less commercial and more artistic photography. Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller channel realism in their photographs.

Since the beginning of the 21st century, fashion has become as diverse as fashion photographers, and subsequently, there hasn’t been a predominant trend or approach.

Some of the current representatives are David Sims, Tim Walker, Steven Klein, and Inez & Vinoodh. Magazines no longer dictate the trends; instead, they tend to emerge on social media and independent blogs.

If you want to learn more from Carola, sign up for her course, Art Direction for Fashion Photography, and learn the creative process behind a fashion campaign, from concept to final image.

English version by @acesarato

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